lunes, 24 de marzo de 2008

MI ENCUENTRO CON LAS VACAS SAGRADAS EN JAIPUR
Había estado en la ciudad de Agra visitando el maravilloso Tah Majal y me dirigía a Jaipur, la ciudad rosada, lugar donde se encuentra el Palacio de los Vientos. Ya estaba casi acostumbrada al calor de India, pero habían días en los que no soportaba muy bien los 37 a 42 grados de temperatura, pero me las arreglaba con mi botella de agua de 2 litros que prácticamente era parte de mi cuerpo. Creo que tomaba cinco litros de agua diario y casi no comía, solo verdura y fruta.

De Agra a Jaipur son 5 horas de viaje en bus, como siempre solo viajaba agente local. Ya casi llegando a Jaipur, el bus comenzó a bajar la velocidad, cientos de personas, una horda inmensa de personas (siempre había mucha gente por todos lados), como si fuera una manifestación rodearon el bus en movimiento y gritaban algo hindú, me asusté!, el señor que viajaba a mi lado cerro la ventana y todos hacían lo mismo. La gente intentaba subir al bus pero por las ventanas!!. Algunos lograron colgarse de la ventana y trepar para poder entrar al bus, con nosotros dentro!!! Es la costumbre o pasaba algo?, pero no me quedaría allí a averiguarlo.

No sé ni como baje, algunas personas me ayudaron y el bus me dejo en un terreno abierto, como si fuera un espacio sin construir, no entendía si este era el paradero o qué!, el chofer no hablaba inglés, además en este mar de gente solo intente salir de allí lo mas pronto posible. No había nada a mi alrededor, así que pregunte a la gente en la calle por un hotel, y me indicaron un arco de cemento que decía “HOTEL”, pero no se veía nada, solo un arco abandonado, en plena tierra y descampado?.

Me dirigí al arco y … ¡Ay! sorpresa maravillosa!. El panorama cambio de golpe, ya había sacado mi conclusión de que India es un país de contrastes fuertes, pero esto fue uno de esos contrastes locos para la mente y el espíritu de un viajero!! Al cruzar el arco ingresé a otro mundo, un paraíso verde, era un Hotel-Palacio de un heredero de Maharajá, el Narain Niwas Palace, tenia una entrada con jardines hermosos, pasillos de mármol, azulejos, y lagunas, todo muy bien cuidado, era un palacio real rodeado de un paraíso natural!!, una propiedad privada de lujo, parecía un sueño, me transporte al siglo XVII en un segundo, me quede allí estática y asombrada observando todo, había un silencio increíble. Me transporte mas, cuando divise a los lejos una persona vestida con el traje de la época, pantalones bombachos, turbante con una perla, bigotes grandes….en fin…era como si hubiera entrado a la maquina del tiempo y me hubiera dejado aquí!!!. El Maharajá después de la guerra venia a este palacio para descansar, y construyo este lugar para el reposo de él y sus soldados. Mi habitación era un sueño, mármol, azulejos, mosaicos en el piso, porcelana, mi habitación era de una Reina, una cama con parantes a los lados y un techo de tul, nada de puertas, cortinas con bordados, gobelinos, era un museo mi cuarto…!!!, estuve casi toda la noche recorriéndolo, y observando cada mueble, cada decoración típica….maravillosa!!!!!

Aquí conocí a mi compañero de viaje número 20, 30…ya perdí la cuenta!!. Estuve una semana aquí y viajando algunos días con Javier un turista español que recorría el mundo solo con su mochila, me alegré porque podría hablar castellano después de tiempo, me sentía liberada.

Con Javier empezamos a viajar por Jaipur y a visitar los principales atractivos turísticos. Estaba intrigado como había llegado desde Perú hasta India!!!!. Es una larga historia, pero intente explicarle. Fuimos al City Palace, el Palacio de los Maharajas, pero tuvimos que regresar del tour antes de tiempo porque comenzó a llover torrencialmente, y lo hicimos en bicicleta, nos mojamos horrible y el trafico era terrible, siempre hay demasiada gente por todos lados, autos, motos, bicicletas, carretas, y manadas de vacas echadas en las avenidas, de todos los tamaños y colores.

Es un espectáculo verlas echadas reposando en las avenidas, en los bosques, en las plazas, en los jardines, en los parques, por todo lado, y algunas son inmensas, en fin así es la costumbre, y a mi no me molestaba para nada, me gustaba verlas en el paisaje además siempre me han gustado, lo que pasa es que a veces, interrumpen el trafico!!. Después de una gran ducha de lluvia, llegamos al hotel y una gran cena nos esperaba en los salones del palacio.

Javier ya estaba agobiado de tanto calor y no aguantaba mucho temperaturas muy altas, yo llevaba mas tiempo viajando que él y se sorprendía de mi periplo. Me acosté como a la una de la madrugada, muy agotada pero no pude dormir por el calor, a pesar de tener ventiladores, aire acondicionado y abanicos!. Acordamos con Javier visitar a la mañana siguiente el famoso Fuerte Rojo.

Nos encontramos en el salón de los espejos a las 10 de la mañana, y después de hacer algunas consultas sobre cómo llegar al sitio, salimos a la calle a tomar un bus de transporte público local, como todas las personas comunes y corrientes. Yo siempre he utilizado el transporte publico local en casi todos los países, es realmente interesante, económico y toda una experiencia de viaje!!!, son espacios donde comúnmente no hay turistas sino la gente local que va al trabajo, al colegio, al supermercado, etc. es mi costumbre.

Además los buses funcionaban igual que en mi país, eran muy similares a los nuestros y había un cobrador en la puerta y se llenaban igual que los nuestros, en fin, me sentía un poco como en casa, aunque no se si Javier sentía lo mismo!. Él solo me seguía y como no hablaba mucho inglés, yo siempre era la que consultaba.

Nos subimos al bus, y con mapa en mano nos enrumbamos. Pasamos por avenidas, plazas, la gente nos miraba extrañada, que hacen estos españoles en el bus, dirían?!. En fin estábamos sentados al fondo, en un asiento para cinco personas. El bus estaba full, no cabía un alfiler, como bajaríamos? no lo sabíamos todavía. Yo estaba pegada a la ventana viendo los letreros para no pasarnos del lugar indicado. Hasta que un señor nos indico que estábamos cerca, entre inglés e hindi.

Tratamos de caminar hasta la puerta del bus con dificultad pero lo logramos. Cuando llegamos, el cobrador nos quería cobrar 10 rupias a cada uno en lugar de 4 que era el pasaje normal!! y empezó la discusión, Javier intento ayudarme en la discusión: “Mister its four rupies, no ten, please!”. “No, its ten rupies Madame, ten rupies!!!, y no nos permitía bajar del bus, “Four rupies!, insistí”, “No, Ten rupies!, Four rupies! Ten rupies!! y así! jajajaja…, el cobrador se molesto mucho y había gente que quería bajar también y algunos nos apoyaban, todo un escándalo. El cobrador sabia muy bien los números en inglés, acaso quería cobrarnos mas por ser turistas?.

Después de tanta negociación bilateral, Javier le entregó sólo 10 rupias por los dos, y el bus sobre paro bruscamente. El chofer nos dijo algo en su idioma, estaba muy molesto y nos apuro a bajar. Entre la confusión, y mirando a otro lado, al bajar no pisamos la pista sino que caímos encima de una manada de vacas echadas en un charco de lodo, nooooo!!!!. Los dos nos tropezamos al mismo tiempo y caímos encima de ellas!!!!!yo me resbale, y Javier también, estábamos entre echados y arrodillados en el lomo y la panza de las vacas jajajaja!!!!!, estábamos entre las vacas, la pista y el lodo. Nos mojamos, nos manchamos y las vacas comenzaron a moverse, mientras nosotros tratábamos de incorporarnos y buscar tierra firme y limpia!!. La gente nos miraba tranquila, pensábamos que se iban a molestar por fastidiar a las vacas pero luego nos ayudaron a salir y las vacas seguían en su reposo!!!!. Después de incorporarnos ya mas tranquilos, manchados y mojados y riéndonos durante todo el camino, nos fuimos así como estábamos a visitar el fuerte rojo. Nunca pensé caer sobre una vaca!!!, fue una especie de colchón entre duro y blando!!.

A pesar de todo les recomiendo tomar siempre el bus local, será una gran experiencia, no se arrepentirán. Sobre las vacas, pues estuve cerca a una vaca hindú sagrada. En India existen tradiciones vivas y muy arraigadas, realizan una adoración especial a los animales, y las vacas para ellos es lo mas sagrado, porque representan el principio de la maternidad y la vida, también la generosidad y la caridad por la forma en que reparten su leche. Por otro lado, la vaca es un ser pacífico (estoy muy de acuerdo con ello) y encarna lo que Mahatma Ghandi llamó “ahimsa”, la no-violencia. Me encanta India, volvería con mucho gusto a quedarme más tiempo. Hasta otro viaje!.

128 comentarios:

Bkiyan dijo...

Hola!
Errante:

Efectivamente las vacas en la India simbolizan a la Madre Tierra, a la Naturaleza y, por extensión, a la fertilidad y la abundancia, como un aspecto benigno de la Gran Diosa.

Como proveedora de leche se la considera como una madre.

Recibe varios nombres, según sus conexiones con distintas deidades.
El más importante es Kâmadhenu («otorgadora de deseos»), la vaca de la abundancia, tomada como representación de Lakshmî, diosa de la prosperidad.

Este animal tiene el poder de conceder todos los deseos. Se le considera sagrada por su generosidad hacia los humanos, como proveedora incansable, pues puede producir cantidades infinitas de leche y es la nodriza de todos los seres vivientes.

Kâmadhenu surgió del batimiento del océano primigenio. Además, representa en sí a todas las especies animales.

Según la leyenda, tras el surgimiento del hombre, sus tejidos corporales comenzaron a desgastarse. Entonces el dios Brahmâ, para beneficio de la humanidad, se transformó en una vaca y dio a los hombres el néctar en forma de leche. Por ello se considera a la vaca como padre y madre.

Viajar en transporte local en cualquier lugar es la mejor manera de conocer a la gente, parte de sus costumbres y tambien parte de su cultura.

Bkiyan dijo...

Hola!
Errante:

Efectivamente las vacas en la India simbolizan a la Madre Tierra, a la Naturaleza y, por extensión, a la fertilidad y la abundancia, como un aspecto benigno de la Gran Diosa.

Como proveedora de leche se la considera como una madre.

Recibe varios nombres, según sus conexiones con distintas deidades.
El más importante es Kâmadhenu («otorgadora de deseos»), la vaca de la abundancia, tomada como representación de Lakshmî, diosa de la prosperidad.

Este animal tiene el poder de conceder todos los deseos. Se le considera sagrada por su generosidad hacia los humanos, como proveedora incansable, pues puede producir cantidades infinitas de leche y es la nodriza de todos los seres vivientes.

Kâmadhenu surgió del batimiento del océano primigenio. Además, representa en sí a todas las especies animales.

Según la leyenda, tras el surgimiento del hombre, sus tejidos corporales comenzaron a desgastarse. Entonces el dios Brahmâ, para beneficio de la humanidad, se transformó en una vaca y dio a los hombres el néctar en forma de leche. Por ello se considera a la vaca como padre y madre.

Viajar en transporte local en cualquier lugar es la mejor manera de conocer a la gente, parte de sus costumbres y tambien parte de su cultura.

Anónimo dijo...

Hola Errante!

JaJaJa...

Supongo que habrás aprovechado la suerte de compartir suelo con las vacas sagradas Hindues para pedirles al menos un deseo...
;) =)

Lo malo de viajar en tranporte local siendo uno turista es que muchas veces quieren aprovecharse de uno o sino te tratan mal, como si uno les estuviera robando.

Si vieran el transporte local como una oportunidad de conocer gente de fuera y promover turismo otro sería el panorama.

Mikhaela dijo...

Hola!
Errante viajera:

Qué suerte tienes: Te subiste a la montura de Buddha y también has compartido con las vacas sagradas...

Te habrán contado los camellos del desierto todos los nombres de Alá?...

No todos son tan afortunados de vivir las aventuras que compartes hoy con nosotros...

Gracias!

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Errant:

What good luck of which you could have shared with the sacred cows of the India.

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